RV Hookups Explained: What First-Time Campers Need to Know
Electric, water, sewer, full hookup — decoded so you can book the right site and skip the surprises.
If you are new to RV camping, the hookup listings on campground sites can feel like a foreign language. 30-amp, 50-amp, full hookup, dry camping — the terminology matters because it affects what gear you need, how long you can stay comfortable, and what you can actually do at the site. This guide covers the essentials so you book the right site every time.
The four main hookup types
No hookup (dry camping)
No external connections. You run entirely on your RV's onboard resources: house batteries, fresh water tank, and propane. This is the most common setup for dispersed camping and some primitive campgrounds.
- Best for: self-contained rigs with solar, short stays, or minimalist camping.
- Limit: your fresh water tank and battery capacity determine how long you can stay.
- Cost: typically the cheapest option.
Electric only (E hookup)
Shore power connection, no water or sewer. You plug in and run AC, charge devices, and power appliances from the grid. Still need to manage your water tank and dump periodically.
- 30-amp service: supports one AC unit plus basics. Standard for smaller rigs.
- 50-amp service: supports two AC units, electric stove, and multiple simultaneous loads. Required for larger Class A motorhomes and fifth wheels.
- Mistake to avoid: trying to run a 50-amp rig on 30-amp service without an adapter and load management.
Water hookup
Direct connection to the campground water supply via a standard garden hose fitting. You get unlimited fresh water without refilling your tank.
- Use a water pressure regulator — campground water pressure can spike and damage RV plumbing.
- Use a drinking water-safe hose (white or blue, not standard garden hose).
- Filter recommended if water quality is uncertain.
Full hookup (E+W+S)
Electric, water, and sewer all connected. The most comfortable option for extended stays.
- Sewer connection lets you leave gray and black tank valves open (or dump on demand).
- Important: never leave the black tank valve open when connected — let it fill before dumping to avoid solids buildup.
- Full hookup sites are the most in-demand and book out fastest.
How to find the right hookup on any campground listing
When browsing campgrounds, look for these terms in site descriptions:
- W/E: water and electric, no sewer.
- W/E/S or FHU: full hookup.
- E only: electric only, manage your water separately.
- Primitive or tent-only: no hookups.
Use the TheCampVerse campground directory to filter and compare sites by amenities. Browsing state pages helps narrow options by region when you are flexible on location.
Amp service: 30 vs 50
This is the most common confusion for first-time RV campers. Here is the practical difference:
30-amp service
- Standard three-prong plug (TT-30).
- Provides 3,600 watts at 120 volts.
- Fine for most travel trailers and smaller Class C motorhomes.
- Can run one rooftop AC unit comfortably.
50-amp service
- Four-prong plug (NEMA 14-50 equivalent).
- Provides up to 12,000 watts (two 120V legs at 50 amps each).
- Needed for large Class A motorhomes, fifth wheels with dual AC, or rigs with electric water heaters.
- You can use a 50-amp rig on 30-amp service with an adapter, but you must limit simultaneous loads.
Essential hookup gear to bring
- Water pressure regulator (keep it under 60 PSI).
- Drinking water-safe hose (25-foot minimum).
- 30-amp to 50-amp adapter (dog bone) or vice versa.
- Surge protector / EMS (protects against faulty campground power).
- Sewer hose kit (10-15 feet minimum) plus sewer donut seal.
- Gloves for sewer connections.
Common first-timer mistakes
- Booking a 30-amp site for a 50-amp rig without researching load limits. Results in tripped breakers when you run AC + microwave simultaneously.
- No water pressure regulator. Campground pressure variance can blow out RV plumbing connections.
- Leaving the black tank valve open on a full hookup. Creates the "pyramid of doom." Keep it closed until ready to dump.
- Underestimating sewer hose length. The connection is never where you expect it. 15 feet is safer than 10.
- Skipping the surge protector. Bad campground power is more common than people expect.
Quick hookup checklist for site arrival
- ☐ Level the rig before connecting anything.
- ☐ Connect shore power first (check amp service matches your rig).
- ☐ Attach water pressure regulator, then hose, then RV inlet.
- ☐ Set up sewer hose, connect at RV end first, then campground end.
- ☐ Verify all connections before opening any valves.
Finding hookup-friendly campgrounds
Not every campground offers full hookups, and availability varies widely by season. Search for RV-friendly options with confirmed amenities at TheCampVerse and compare by hookup type before you book.
Hookups are not complicated once you have done it once. The first setup takes 20 minutes; after that it is a 5-minute routine. Get the gear right, know your rig's requirements, and book the matching site — everything else follows.